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Aqueon QuietFlow LED PRO 20 Aquarium Power Filter

Item: CA06081
Availability: In Stock
Was: $36.99$27.99You Save: $9.00!(24%)


Aqueon QuietFlow Aquarium Power Filter. Featured is a LED filter cartridge change indicator light that flashes when the cartridge becomes clogged with debris, providing a reminder that it's time to replace the cartridge.

A great benefit of the Aqueon QuietFlow filters is the internal pump design that helps dampen noise, eliminates leaks and because it is self-priming, starts up automatically after cleaning or power interruptions. Higher flow rates also ensure a higher dissolved oxygen content for healthier, more active fish.

Key Benefits

  • LED indicator light flashes when it's time to change the cartridge
  • Filter pump is self-priming, just plug and play out of the box; filter will auto-restart if power is interrupted and restored
  • Provides mechanical, chemical, biological, and additional specialty pad filtration
  • High flow rates ensure a highly dissolved oxygen content for healthier, more active fish
  • Uses Aqueon Replacement Filter Cartridges and Specialty Filter Pads

There are five total stages of filtration-mechanical, chemical, biological and an additional specialty pad-for the cleanest, clearest, healthiest water.

  • Stage 1 - Dense floss removes particles and debris.
  • Stage 2 - Activated carbon removes toxins, odors and discoloration.
  • Stage 3 - Patented Bio-Holster removes toxic ammonia and nitrites.
  • Stage 4 - Diffuser grid removes additional toxins while adding oxygen for more active fish. It also reduces splashing makes the return exceptionally quiet.
  • Stage 5 - Specialty filter pad option for additional carbon, ammonia reducer or phosphate remover.

Useful Information

QuietFlow LED Pro Power Filter Instructions

Aqueon® QuietFlow® PRO Aquarium Filter is equipped with an LED Cartridge Change Indicator. This unique patented feature provides an easy visual indicator when it's time to replace the filter cartridge. When the filter cartridges become fully clogged with debris, the water level rises within the filter. The higher level means the filter cartridge needs to be replaced. The clogged filter cartridge triggers the LED Cartridge Change Indicator to begin flashing and is your visual signal to change the filter cartridge. Simply replace the cartridges by following the instructions listed. Once the new cartridge has been installed the LED Cartridge Change Indicator will stop flashing.


  • Step 1: Check filter for any signs of shipping damage. If damaged, do not operate and return to place of purchase.
  • Step 2: Remove new cartridge from bags and rinse under cold water to remove carbon dust.
  • Step 3: Install cartridge as shown, Biological Cartridge Holster and cartridge must face forward; both are labeled "FRONT"
  • Step 4: If the pump is already assembled, check the correct position of it. (Refer to diagram 4).
  • If the pump supplied is not assembled, follow the instructions to attach it:

    • Insert the pump
    • Check the hook
    • Insert the power cord (refer to diagrams 4A-4B-4C)

  • Step 5:
    • Install filter on tank as shown (diagram 5).
    • Fill tank with water to 1" from tank's top edge
    • Plug power cord into household receptacle. (Remember to incorporate "Drip Loop" when plugging in the filter.) Filter will begin to draw water from tank, pump water into filter through cartridge and return it to tank.
    • Top off aquarium water level to outside bottom edge of top frame.


Filter Cartridge:

Filter cartridge should be replace when LED Indicator starts to flash or monthly.

  • Step 1: Using finger tab on cartridge, remove used cartridge from filter and discard.
  • Step 2: Remove new cartridge from bag and rinse under cold water to remove carbon dust.
  • Step 3: Install new cartridge and replace cover.
  • Step 4: If the LED Indicator continues to flash after the cartridges have been changed, check to make sure moisture has not accumulated in the metal contact area on the underside of the cover. If moisture is present, wipe it dry and replace cover.
  • Note: Do not discard biological cartridge holster. At time of cartridge replacement, rinse biological cartridge holster in water taken from aquarium. Do not rinse holster in tap water and do not use cleansers to clean.


  • Step 1: Unplug filter and remove from aquarium.
  • Step 2: Carefully remove filter tube from filter tube plate.
  • Step 3: Carefully remove filter pump from filter body by pressing release tab.
  • Step 4: Separate and clean all parts including impeller.
  • Step 5: Rinse thoroughly and reinstall.

Specialty Filter Pad:

Specialty filter pads should be replaced every 2-3 weeks.

Replacement pads are sold separately - Carbon, Ammonia Reducer, and Phosphate Remover

  • Step 1: Remove aquarium filter cover.
  • Step 2: Remove Bio-Media Grid from filter by pulling upward on the tab.
  • Step 3: Remove Specialty Filter Pad and discard.
  • Step 4: Insert new Specialty Filter Pad into Bio-Media Grid.
  • Note: Do not discard Bio-Media Grid. At time of Specialty Filter Pad replacement, rinse Bio-Media Grid in water taken from aquarium. Do not rinse Bio-Media Grid in tap water and do not use cleansers to clean.

    Note: This appliance has no user serviceable parts.

Installing LED Cartridge Change Indicator Batteries

  • Step 1: Remove filter cover.
  • Step 2: Locate LED battery chamber.
  • Step 3: With battery charger facing upward, remove "Pull" tab from between batteries; this will activate them. Make sure white plastic ribbon is underneath the batteries. Placing the ribbon underneath the batteries will make battery removal easy when it's time to replace them. When installing the batteries, please make sure the contact points (+/-) are facing the correct direction.
  • Step 4: Return LED battery chamber into filter cover; please be sure the contact points are aligned correctly.
  • Step 5: Return filter cover to filter housing.

Replacing the LED Cartridge Change Indicator Batteries

  • Step 1: Remove filter cover.
  • Step 2: Pull LED battery chamber from cover.
  • Step 3: Use the plastic ribbon to remove batteries by pulling upward on ribbon, batteries should pop out easily.
  • Step 4: Place new batteries on top of the ribbon, install new batteries. Make sure the contact surfaces (+/-) are facing the correct way.
  • Step 5: Re-insert battery chamber into filter cover.
  • Step 6: Place filter cover on housing.


To guard against injury, basic safety precautions should be observed including the following:

  1. Read and Follow All Safety Instructions
  2. Danger: To avoid possible electric shock, special care should be taken since water is employed in the use of aquarium equipment. For each of the following situations, do not attempt to repair yourself; return the appliance to an authorized service facility for service or discard the appliance.
    • If the appliance shows any sign of abnormal water leakage, immediately unplug it from the power source.
    • Carefully examine the appliance after installation. It should not be plugged in if there is water on the parts not intended to be wet.
    • Carefully examine the appliance after installation. It should not be plugged in if there is water on the parts not intended to be wet.
    • Do not operate any appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, or if it is malfunctioning or if it is dropped or damaged in any manner.
    • To avoid the possibility of the appliance plug or receptacle getting wet, position aquarium stand and tank to one side of the wall mounted receptacle to prevent water from dripping onto the receptacle or plug. As shown in the figure below, a "drip loop" should be arranged by the user for each cord connecting an aquarium appliance to the receptacle. The "drip loop" is the part of the cord below the level of the receptacle, or the connector if an extension cord is used, to prevent water travel along the cord and coming in contact with the receptacle. If the plug or the receptacles do get wet, Don't unplug the cord. Disconnect the fuse to the circuit breaker that supplies power to the appliance. Then unplug and examine for the presence of water in the receptacle.

  3. Close supervision is necessary when any appliance is used by or near children.
  4. To avoid injury, do not contact moving parts or hot parts such as heaters, reflectors, lamp bulbs, etc.
  5. Always unplug an appliance from the outlet when not in use, before putting on or taking off parts, and before cleaning. Never yank the cord to pull plug from the outlet. Grasp the plug and pull to disconnect.
  6. Do not use an appliance for other than intended use. The use of attachments not recommended or sold by the appliance manufacturer may cause an unsafe condition.
  7. Do not install or store the appliance where it will be exposed to the weather or to temperatures below freezing.
  8. Make sure an appliance mounted on a tank is securely installed before operating it.
  9. Read and observe all the important notices on the appliance.
  10. If an extension cord is necessary, a cord with a proper rating should be used. A cord rated for less amperesor watts than the appliance rating may overheat. Care should be taken to arrange the cord so that it will not be tripped over or pulled.
  11. Only for Polarized attachment plug appliances

  12. If this appliance has polarized plug (one blade is wider than the other) as a safety feature, this plug will fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician. Never use with an extension cord unless plug can be fully inserted. Do not attempt to defeat this safety feature.
  13. Save these instructions


This is a common misconception. It is actually water quality that stunts growth in fish, not the size of the aquarium. Since nitrates and other pollutants, which act as growth inhibitors, accumulate more rapidly and to higher concentrations in smaller aquariums, they have a greater impact on fish growth and health in small aquariums. Providing proper filtration and performing frequent partial water exchanges will maximize growth and health in your fish regardless of aquarium size.
Feeding depends on the type of fish you own. Aside from large predatory fish, most aquarium fish do best when fed only what they can consume in 2 minutes or less, once or twice a day. Any leftover food will pollute the water and stress your fish. Herbivorous (vegetarian) fish need to eat more frequently, but still feed only small amounts per feeding. Many experienced aquarists skip feeding their fish once or twice a week to allow them to clear their digestive systems. Watch our short video on the 3 Tips to Succeed to learn about the key tips we recommend in fishkeeping.
Water changes dilute toxins that naturally accumulate in the aquarium. There are many philosophies about frequency and volume, but small water exchanges done frequently are generally considered best for maintaining healthy conditions in your aquarium. A 10% water exchange done weekly is ideal, however, changing about 25% of the aquarium water once or twice a month is sufficient for most aquariums. Avoid changing more than 50% of the water in your aquarium. In doing so you can dramatically change the aquarium water parameters (temperature, pH, chemistry). Major changes to the aquarium environment should be done slowly so fish have time to acclimate.
The frequency of how often a filter cartridge should be changed will vary according to how much waste and free-floating algae is in the fish tank. The general recommendation is to change the filter cartridge once per month.
Filled aquariums weigh approximately 10 lbs. per gallon. For example, a 20 gallon aquarium will weigh about 200 lbs. once filled with fish, substrate, décor and water. Most household furniture will likely only support aquariums of 5 gallons or less. Aquariums that are larger than that should be placed on a stand or base manufactured specifically for aquarium use and designed to safely withstand the weight of a filled aquarium.
Aquariums containing live plants should receive 10-12 hours of high-quality light per day. Tanks with artificial décor only need 5 to 8 hours per day. Hours of light should be the same each day as fish rely on a daily rhythm for their activity and proper health. Use a timer to provide a consistent day/night cycle and never leave the aquarium light on all the time.
Algae is nature's way of purifying water and grows when there is an abundance of nutrients (from fish waste, uneaten food, plant debris, etc.) and light. To keep algae to a minimum, provide proper filtration, feed your fish sparingly, do frequent but small partial water exchanges and avoid excessive light from windows or leaving the aquarium light on too long. Algae eating fish like plecostomus, otocinclus and flying foxes will also help keep algae under control. Watch our short video on the 3 Tips to Succeed to learn about the key tips we recommend in fishkeeping.
There are different views on this, but in general, as long as rocks are sterilized and are not calcium based, you can put them in your aquarium. Scrub them thoroughly and either boil or soak them in a mild bleach solution - rinsing thoroughly afterward before placing them in your aquarium. Calcium based rocks are usually white in color and may raise pH and alkalinity to unsafe levels. They should only be used in African cichlid aquariums. To find out if a rock is calcium based, place a few drops of white vinegar on it; if it fizzes, the rock is probably calcium based.
There are many reasons for cloudy water. Newly set up aquariums may turn cloudy because of a biological imbalance and will usually clear in a few days if left alone. Do not add any new fish or do any cleaning of the tank or filter. Established aquariums can turn cloudy because of overfeeding, too many fish or inadequate filtration. Adding a larger or second filter, removing some fish and/or cutting back on the amount of food entering the aquarium will often resolve this problem. Also make sure that you are doing regular, at least monthly, water changes.
There is no single filter that fits every aquarium need. Typically, hang-on-back filters work well for beginning aquarists because they provide all three types of filtration - mechanical, biological and chemical - and most models use drop-in cartridges, making them very user friendly. Internal filters go inside the aquarium, allowing users to place the aquarium where space is limited. Canister filters can be loaded with virtually any filter media, making them the most versatile type of filter. They take a little more time and effort to service but do not require cleaning as often as other types of filters. Tanks with messy fish should have good mechanical filtration, while heavily populated aquariums should have extra biological media. To ensure optimal performance, choose a filter rated one size larger than your aquarium.
There are advantages to both, and you'll get different opinions depending on who you ask. Glass tanks are more durable, do not scratch easily and because of their strength they can be set on open top stands, which are more affordable. Glass aquariums have open tops, making them easier to decorate and clean. They tend to be more affordable, especially in sizes less than 300 gallons. Acrylic tanks scratch more easily and some may yellow over time. The entire bottom must be supported to prevent bowing and separation of seams. They are lighter and are available in a wider range of shapes than glass aquariums. They can also be easily drilled to accommodate custom plumbing.
Fish don't have eyelids to close, but they do go into a state of rest and reduced metabolism at night, so yes most fish do sleep. Some fish even settle to the bottom at night, and can be picked up by hand. Others remain on alert for danger while in “sleep” mode. Fish that need to keep swimming to breathe, like certain species of sharks, as well as blind cave fish, never sleep.
Actually, the process of “cycling” does not begin until fish or a culture of nitrifying bacteria are added to an aquarium, but the longer you wait to add the first fish after initially setting up your tank, the better. Most aquarium experts recommend waiting at least 48 to 72 hours. Always check temperature and test for pH and ammonia first, as many municipalities add chloramine to tap water and a single dose of water conditioner does not always fully neutralize the ammonia.

It depends on the type of fish you have!

Discus, wild caught angelfish, uaru and certain other fish that are found at or near the equator do better at temperatures between 84° and 88° F.

Betta fish thrive best in water temperatures between 76° and 85° F.

Most tropical fish prefer temperatures ranging from 76° to 80° F.

Goldfish, koi and other coldwater fish prefer the temperatures be between 65° and 72° F.

New livestock purchases should be slowly acclimated to the temperature and water chemistry of your aquarium. Turn off the aquarium light and float the bag containing new fish inside your aquarium for 15 minutes to equalize temperature. Keep the bag closed during this process. After 15 minutes, open the bag, roll the top edge down a few times to form a floatation ring and add a small amount of aquarium water to the bag. Continue adding small amounts of aquarium water to the bag every 5 minutes. After 20 to 30 minutes, gently net the fish out and place them in their new home. Discard the water from the bag, do not pour it into your aquarium. Leave the tank light off for an hour or two to allow the new fish to get used to their new home. An alternate method is to place new fish with their shipping water in a clean container and drip water from your aquarium into the container using air hose and a plastic control valve. Drip rate should range from 1 to 2 drops per second for small bags to a slow dribble for larger bags. After 20 to 30 minutes, gently net the fish out and place them in your aquarium. Leave the tank light off for an hour or two to allow the new fish to get used to their new home.

No, simply seeing condensation inside your Aqueon Glass Adjustable Heater does not that it is broken or defective.

Check that the heater is working properly by using a thermometer with your fish tank. (also make sure that the water is the right temperature for the type of fish that you have inside your fish tank)

The reason you may see condensation is because humidity was in the air and trapped inside the tube when it was manufactured and sealed. Your heater is still able to perform properly with this condensation.

Customer Q&A